The same stitch pattern can make a crisp, sculptural shawl or a soft, fluid one. Most of that difference comes from the yarn.
Fibre
- Wool is warm, springy and forgiving. Stitches look even, and the fabric recovers its shape well.
- Wool blends, often with a little nylon, alpaca or silk, add softness, sheen or strength.
- Cotton is cool and crisp, with excellent stitch definition. It is heavier and has less stretch, so it suits summer wraps.
- Alpaca is very warm and soft, with a slight halo. It drapes beautifully but can stretch under its own weight in large pieces.
Weight
Lighter yarns (4-ply and DK) give a finer, more fluid shawl. Heavier yarns (aran and chunky) work up quickly into something cosy and substantial, but a large piece can become heavy on the shoulders.
Drape and hook size
For a shawl, you usually want drape more than firmness. Going up half or a whole hook size from the one on the yarn label opens the fabric and lets it fall more softly. Make a small swatch in your stitch pattern, wash it and dry it flat before you commit. It tells you more than any label.